What to Do Versus a Pot Sized Bet From a Fish

What to Do Versus a Pot Sized Bet From a Fish


This
article
was
written
by
blackrain79.com
contributor
Fran
Ferlan.

Facing
a
pot
sized
bet
can
be
a
difficult
spot
to
play.
We
are
faced
with
a
big
decision,
often
in
marginal
situations,
and
have
to
decide
then
and
there
whether
or
not
to
continue
and
potentially
put
our
entire
stack
on
the
line
on
consecutive
streets,
or
give
up
right
away
and
relinquish
our
equity.
The
problem
becomes
even
more
complicated
when
the
bet
we
face
comes
from
an
erratic
and
unpredictable
opponent,
aka
the
fish.
What
the
hell
are
they
doing
this
with?
Why
are
they
donk
betting?
Do
they
have
the
nuts
or
complete
air?
You
want
to
find
out,
but
it’s
expensive
to
do
so.
And
it’s
very
difficult
to
put
them
on
the
exact
range,
let
alone
narrow
it
down
to
a
couple
of
hands.


Facing
a
Pot
Sized
Bet
By
a
Fish

So
what
do
we
do
in
a
situation
like
this?
Unfortunately,
the
answer
is
all
too
familiar:
it
depends.
But
that’s
not
really
helpful,
so
let’s
break
it
down
in
this
article.
But
before
providing
some
answers,
let’s
first
define
the
questions
and
narrow
it
down
to
make
our
lives
easier.
This
article
will
focus
on
facing
a
pot
sized
donk
bets
in
single
raised
pots
and
3-bet
pots
from
recreational
players
on
the
flop
and
turn,
because:

A)

it’s
a
spot
in
which
players
tend
to
struggle
the
most,
and…



B)

because
these
situations
are
more
common
than
facing
a
C-bet
against
fish,
as
fish
usually
call
more
than
they
raise.
Also,
when
playing
against
fish,
you
should
be
the
preflop
aggressor
most
of
the
time
anyway.
The
article
was
written
with
cash
games
in
mind,
but
is
applicable
to
other
formats
to
some
extent
as
well.


Definition
of
a
Recreational
Poker
Player
(Fish)

For
the
purpose
of
this
article,
a
fish
is
a
recreational
player
that
plays
too
many
hands
(typically
40%
or
more).
If
you
play
online
you
can

use
a
HUD
to
show
you
this
right
on
your
screen.

They
also
play
fairly
passively
both
preflop
and
postflop
(with
the
exception
of
aggro-fish,
more
on
that
below)
and
makes
huge
fundamental
mistakes
and
all
kinds
of
crazy
nonsense
plays.
Or
in
other
words,
our
most
beloved
customers.
By
the
way,
if
you
don’t
know
the
basic
strategies
to
consistently
beat
these
kinds
of
players,
check
out
the
brand
new
BlackRain79
video
with
the
best
14
beginner
poker
tips:
And

subscribe
to
the
BlackRain79
YouTube
channel
for
weekly
small
stakes
poker
strategy
videos
like
this.


A
few
more
quick
definitions,
so
that
we
are
on
the
same
page
here:
A
single
raised
pot
(SRP)
is
a
pot
in
which
there
was
a
raise
preflop,
and
the
other
player(s)
just
flat
call
instead
of
3-betting.
A
3-bet
pot
is
a
pot
in
which
a
player
re-raised
the
original
raiser
and
other
player(s)
call.
A
3-bet
pot
will
usually
have
a
much
more
shallow
stack-to-pot
ratio
(usually
5
or
less).
By
the
way,
if
you
need
a
reminder
on
SPR
and
how
it
affects
your
preflop
strategy,
BlackRain79
already
has
you
covered
in
a

recent
article.


What
is
a
Donk
Bet?

In
a
broader
sense,
a
donk
bet
is
a
bet
made
out
of
position
against
an
earlier
street
aggressor.
For
example,
you
raise
preflop
on
the
button,
villain
calls
in
the
small
blind,
and
fires
up
a
bet
on
the
flop.
It
isn’t
necessarily
a
derogatory
term,
as
there
are
situations
where
it
might
be
a
correct
play.
But
as
this
article
will
hopefully
demonstrate,
when
fish
make
a
pot
sized
donk
bet,
it’s
rarely
an
optimal
play.
We
already
said
that
our
decision
on
what
to
do
against
a
pot
sized
bet
depends
on
a
lot
of
factors.
So
let’s
break
them
down,
starting
with
how
committed
we
are
to
the
pot.


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What to Do Versus a Pot Sized Bet From a Fish

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why
I
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SPR
and
Pot
Commitment

The
smaller
the
SPR,
the
more
committed
we
are.
If
the
stack-to-pot
ratio
is
3
or
less,
we
are
committed
with
a
top
pair
hand
or
better.
This
will
happen
often
either
in
3-bet
pots,
or
when
fish
are
playing
shortstacked
(i.e.
their
effective
stack
size
is
significantly
less
than
100
bb,
because
they
bought
in
for
a
minimum
of
40
big
blinds,
for
example).
So
when
we
face
a
pot-sized
bet
against
a
fish
on
the
flop
with
a
made
hand,
we
should
be
inclined
to
get
all
our
money
in
the
middle,
preferably
as
soon
as
possible.
Top
pair
hands
go
up
in
value
in
shallow
SPR
pots,
as
opposed
to
speculative
hands
that
perform
better
in
deeper
SPR
pots.
The
reasons
we
shouldn’t
try
to
slowplay
in
this
situation
are
abundant.
First
of
all,
implied
odds
are
bigger
on
earlier
streets
than
the
later
ones,
so
fish
are
more
likely
to
call
us
down
with
all
kinds
of
crazy
draws,
like
gutshot
draws,
backdoor
flush
draws
and
so
on.
They
don’t
care
about
the
math,
and
the
risk-reward
concept
is
only
vaguely
familiar
to
them.
Secondly,
the
board
runout
might
scare
them
off.
If
they
have
a
top
pair
or
second
pair
on
the
flop,
they
might
end
up
with
a
third
or
fourth
pair
by
the
river,
and
won’t
be
as
willing
to
pay
us
off.
And
lastly,
fish
have
extremely
wide
preflop
calling
ranges.
The
wider
the
range,
the
harder
it
is
to
connect
with
the
flop.
Fish
are
also
notoriously
impatient,
and
if
they
have
little
money
left
behind,
they’ll
often
just
roll
the
dice
and
try
to
get
lucky
with
their
suited
junk,
fourth
pair,
ridiculous
draws
and
so
on.
So
with
a
top
pair
hand
or
better
in
a
small
SPR
pot,
your
best
bet
is
just
get
all
the
money
in
as
soon
as
possible
and
hope
your
hand
holds
up
against
their
nonsense.
It
won’t
always
be
the
case
of
course,
but
as
long
as
you’re
getting
your
money
in
with
a
mathematical
edge,
you’re
good.
You
did
your
job,
and
the
rest
is
up
to
the
poker
gods.
This
is
something
that
BlackRain79
discusses
in
much
more
detail
in

Crushing
the
Microstakes.


Example
Hand


Effective
stack
sizes:

80BB.
You
are
dealt
KQ on
the
BU.
A
loose
passive
fish
min-raises
to
2x
in
the
CO.
You
3-bet
to
7x.
Blinds
fold,
fish
calls.

Pot:

15.5
BB

Flop:

K♠97♣
Fish
bets
16.5
BB
You:
???
You
should
raise.
Let’s
consider
the
previous
action,
the
flop
texture
and
villain’s
potential
range.
A
fish
min-raised
in
the
CO,
which
means
they
probably
like
their
hand
somewhat,
but
since
they
play
north
of
40%
of
all
hands,
we
can’t
narrow
their
range
too
much.
We
go
for
an
isolation
3-bet
and
the
fish
calls.
Their
range
is
capped,
meaning
we
can
probably
eliminate
AA,
KK,
and
AK.
We
flop
top
pair
decent
kicker
and
face
a
big
bet.
We
need
to
make
a
decision
right
then
and
there.
Commit
or
quit.
Folding
is
out
of
the
question,
of
course.
SPR
is
4.7,
i.e.
on
the
smallish
side
of
the
spectrum.
We
aren’t
necessarily
automatically
committed,
but
in
this
spot
against
this
particular
opponent
we
pretty
much
are,
so
we
should
play
for
their
whole
stack.
A
number
of
hands
that
would
give
us
action
against
which
we’re
ahead
of
is
through
the
roof.
Any
Kx
hand,
like
KJ,
KT,
a
bunch
of
drawing
hands,
like
QT,
QJ,
JT,
J8,
T8,
T6,
86,
85,
65,
maybe
even
9x
hands
like
Q9,
J9,
T9,
98
and
so
on.
Remember,
we
are
playing
against
somebody
that
plays
nearly
half
of
all
hands,
so
they
can
have
ALL
of
those
hands
in
their
range
and
then
some.
Sure,
there
are
some
hands
that
have
us
beat,
but
those
are
just
a
small
part
of
their
overall
range.
We
are
quite
comfortably
ahead
most
of
the
time,
and
should
get
our
money
in
and
let
that
edge
play
out.
We
can
call
here
as
well,
but
a
lot
of
turn
cards
can
kill
our
action.
Remember,
implied
odds
are
bigger
on
the
flop
than
on
the
turn,
so
we
should
take
advantage
of
that.


What
About
Drawing
Hands?

Having
a
top
pair
hand
against
a
fish
and
facing
a
pot
sized
bet
in
a
shallow
SPR
spot
is
pretty
straightforward,
and
these
hands
basically
play
themselves.
There’s
not
much
more
to
do
than
get
the
money
in
and
hold
your
breath.
Here
is
a
hand
that
BlackRain79
recently
reviewed
on
YouTube
that
talks
about
this
in
more
detail:
But
as
we
know,
most
hands
miss
most
flops.
We
don’t
have
a
made
hand
on
the
flop
more
often
than
we
do.
We
usually
either
miss
or
have
some
sort
of
a
drawing
hand.
Also,
effective
stacks
can
be
quite
deeper,
particularly
in
cash
games.
This
is
where
it
gets
a
little
trickier,
and
we
need
to
rely
on
math
to
make
an
educated
guess
on
how
to
proceed.
When
we
face
any
bet
on
the
flop,
it
can
be
extremely
useful
to

memorize
certain
pot
odds
in
relation
to
the
bet
size.
That
way,
you
don’t
need
to
waste
any
brain
power
to
calculate
the
pot
odds
in
every
single
situation.

Poker
is
essentially
an
extremely
complex
math
problem,
so
it’s
useful
to
use
some
shortcuts
in
order
to
make
better
in-game
decisions.
One
such
shortcut
is
to
remember
that
when
you
face
any
pot
sized
bet,
you
are
getting
2:1
pot
odds
on
a
call,
which
means
you
need
to
win
the
hand
33%
of
the
time
on
average
for
your
call
to
be
profitable.
So
if
your
equity
is
33%
or
more
against
your
opponents
range,
you
can
continue
profitably.
But
how
the
hell
can
you
know
if
your
hand
is
good
33%
of
the
time?
You
can’t.
In
order
to
know
that
definitively,
you’d
have
to
know
your
opponent’s
exact
range,
which
is
virtually
impossible.
What’s
more,
that’s
only
the
part
of
the
equation,
because
you
also
need
to
take
into
consideration
a
number
of
other
factors,
such
as
implied
odds,
action
on
future
streets,
board
runout
etc.
Too
many
unknown
variables,
too
little
time.
To
avoid
such
paralysis
by
analysis,
let’s
try
to
simplify
once
again
and
focus
on
what
we
actually
know.
We
can’t
accurately
predict
the
fish’s
range,
but
we
don’t
really
need
to.
We
can
rely
on
our
intuition
backed
up
with
a
little
bit
of
math
once
more.
If
we
have
a
drawing
hand,
again,
it
might
be
worth
memorizing
how
often
we’ll
hit
our
outs.


The
Rule
of
Four

We
can
use
the
rule
of
four
to
quickly
guesstimate
our
equity,
by
simply
multiplying
our
number
of
outs
by
4.
This
rule
becomes
less
reliable
the
more
outs
we
have,
but
it’s
accurate
enough
for
most
in-game
situations.

Here
are
the
chances
of
improving
your
draws
from
flop
to
river
you
should
have
memorized:
  • A
    flush
    draw
    completes
    35%
    of
    the
    time.
  • An
    open-ended
    straight
    draw
    completes
    32%
    of
    the
    time.
  • A
    gutshot
    straight
    draw
    completes
    17%
    of
    the
    time.
So
we
see
that
calling
a
pot
sized
bet
on
the
flop
with
a
flush
and
open-ended
straight
draw
can
be
outright
profitable.
Of
course,
we
won’t
always
be
drawing
to
the
nuts,
so
even
if
we
do
improve,
it
doesn’t
mean
we’ll
necessarily
win
the
hand,
so
these
percentages
are
only
a
guideline.
There
are
many
other
factors
that
determine
whether
or
not
our
play
is
+EV
or
not,
but
since
a
lot
of
those
factors
will
be
unknown,
we
can
always
fall
back
on
the
fundamental
math
to
try
and
make
an
informed
decision.
But
like
we
said,
it’s
only
a
piece
of
the
puzzle.
It
still
doesn’t
answer
the
cardinal
question
of
poker:
what
the
hell
are
they
doing
this
with?
We
need
to
have
at
least
a
vague
idea
of
our
opponent’s
ranges
in
order
to
apply
our
mathematical
knowledge
somewhat
successfully.
To
do
so,
we
need
to
know
what
kind
of
opponent
we
are
facing.
Not
all
fish
are
created
equal,
and
it
would
be
a
huge
mistake
to
apply
a
one-style-fits-all
strategy
when
playing
against
them.
While
it’s
true
they
might
share
certain
traits,
it
doesn’t
mean
they
all
play
the
same
in
all
situations.
Here
are
a
few
rules
of
thumb
to
keep
in
mind.
First
of
all,
the
looser
the
villain,
the
wider
you
can
call.
The
higher
the
villain’s

VPIP
(voluntarily
put
money
in
the
pot),
the
more
junk
they’ll
have,
and
it
will
be
less
likely
they’ve
hit
the
flop
in
any
significant
way.

Also,
when
it
comes
to
recreational
players,
the
higher
the
VPIP,
the
worse
player
they
tend
to
be.
A
90%
VPIP
fish
is
certainly
going
to
play
worse
than
a
40%
VPIP
fish.
Next,
the
more
aggressive
the
fish,
the
wider
you
can
call.
As
we’ve
said
before,
not
all
fish
are
of
the
passive
variety.
Some
of
them
like
to
spew
chips
around
and
make
all
kinds
of
wild
bluffs,
betting
and
raising
erratically,
and
what’s
worse,
getting
away
with
it
a
large
chunk
of
the
time.
While
they
can
be
frustrating
to
play
against,
these
kinds
of
players
can
actually
be
your
biggest
source
of
income.
But
only
if
you
remain
patient
and
keep
your
ego
in
check.
Also,
from
time
to
time
you
might
need
to
call
them
down
with
a
hand
you
won’t
be
quite
comfortable
calling
with
otherwise,
like
a
second
pair,
or
even
an
Ace
high
in
some
situations.


Example
Hand


Effective
stack
size:

100BB.
You
are
dealt
A♣K♠
in
MP.
A
loose
and
aggressive
fish
limps
UTG.
You
iso-raise
to
4x.
Folds
around,
aggrofish
calls.

Pot:

9.5BB

Flop:

QT♠3♣
Aggrofish
raises
to
9.5BB
You:
???
You
should
call.
As
opposed
to
the
previous
example,
we
have
a
much
bigger
SPR
of
about
10,
so
we
aren’t
automatically
committed
to
the
pot,
and
we
have
a
lot
more
maneuverability
post
flop.
Folding
is
out
of
the
question
in
this
spot,
as
we
are
drawing
to
the
nuts
with
four
Jacks,
as
well
as
a
TPTK
(top
pair
top
kicker)
with
any
Ace
or
a
King.
If
we
hit
any
of
our
outs,
we
can
be
comfortably
ahead
of
the
villain’s
range,
which
is
extremely
wide
in
this
situation,
considering
their
player
type.
Like
in
the
previous
example,
it
can
consist
of
any
number
of
hands
like
top
pair
weak
kicker,
second
pair,
third
pair,
gutshot
draws,
backdoor
flush
draws
and
so
on
and
so
forth.
Too
many
to
even
consider
counting
here.
We
aren’t
necessarily
ahead
with
our
Ace
high
hand,
but
we
have
a
large
chunk
of
equity
we
aren’t
willing
to
give
up.
We
can
consider
raising,
but
if
we
do,
we
might
only
get
action
from
hands
that
have
us
crushed.
And
what
if
the
villain
comes
over
the
top
with
a
shove?
Certainly
not
an
optimal
spot
for
us.
By
flatting,
we
allow
them
to
keep
barrelling
on
future
streets
with
all
their
crazy
bluffs,
while
also
controlling
the
size
of
the
pot.
Then
we
can
assess
the
best
course
of
action
on
future
streets.
We
have
position
and
a
skill
edge
in
the
hand,
so
we
should
utilize
it.
Answering
blind
aggression
with
aggression
of
our
own
should
be
done
only
if
we
can
conclude
with
some
certainty
that
we
are
comfortably
ahead
with
our
hand
and
that
we
can
get
action
from
weaker
hands.


What
Should
You
Do
Versus
a
Turn
Pot
Sized
Bet?

Here’s
where
things
get
a
little
trickier,
because
there’s
more
information
to
consider.
If
you
encounter
a
turn
pot
sized
bet,
you
should
consider
all
the
info
mentioned
before,
as
well
as
previous
action,
but
you
should
bear
in
mind
that
turn
ranges
tend
to
be
stronger,
and
there’s
a
lot
less
junk
in
their
range
at
this
point.
They
will
still
rarely
have
the
absolute
nuts,
and
practically
never
have
complete
air.
What
this
usually
means
is
they
probably
picked
up
some
equity
on
the
turn.
You
should
tread
carefully,
but
if
you’re
already
pot
committed,
this
shouldn’t
change
your
plans
too
much.
That’s
why
it’s
important
that
you
decide
on
the
flop
whether
or
not
you
want
to
take
your
hand
to
the
felt.
As
a
rule
of
thumb,
if
you
call
one
street,
you
should
usually
call
the
consecutive
one
as
well.
So
if
you
call
a
flop
bet,
you
should
be
prepared
to
call
the
turn
bet
as
well,
otherwise
you’re
better
off
folding
right
there
on
the
flop.
Bear
in
mind
that
the
higher
their
VPIP,
the
more
ridiculous
hands
you
can
expect
in
their
range.
These
are
all
just
guidelines
of
course.
No
two
players
are
completely
alike.
So
take
all
this
advice
with
a
grain
of
salt.


So
What
is
Their
Actual
Range?

Finally,
let’s
answer
the
cardinal
question,
what
are
they
doing
this
with?
As
we’ve
seen,
it
depends
on
a
lot
of
factors,
and
most
of
the
time
we
shouldn’t
overthink
it
and
play
it
straightforwardly,
especially
in
shallow
SPR
pots.
But
if
we’re
playing
in
deeper
SPR
pots,
we
should
take
more
factors
in
consideration,
including
our
opponent’s
range.

Here’s
the
bottom
line:
When
you
encounter
a
pot
sized
donk
bet
from
a
fish,
they
usually
have
a
mediocre
or
a
drawing
hand.
They
probably
don’t
know
what
to
do
with
it.
They
don’t
want
to
fold
it,
but
they
aren’t
particularly
stoked
about
it
either.
So
they
try
to
“buy”
the
pot
right
there
on
the
flop,
hoping
a
big
bet
size
would
scare
off
their
opponents.
They
will
almost
certainly
never
have
the
nuts,
and
they
will
never
have
complete
air
either.
Why?
Well,
it
all
comes
down
to
fish
psychology.
Fish
have
a
strong
propensity
to
be
deceptive.
They
like
to
slowplay
their
huge
hands
in
order
to
trap
their
opponents,
or
make
huge
bluffs,
because
that’s
what
poker
is
all
about,
right?
Outplaying
people
and
owning
souls.
It
certainly
isn’t
about
odds
and
percentages
and
all
that
boring
stuff.
So
if
they
have
a
really
strong
made
hand
on
the
flop,
like
two
pair
or
better,
they
will
often
slowplay
it,
because
they
don’t
want
to
scare
you
off.
And
if
they
missed
the
flop
completely,
they’ll
just
give
up
a
lot
of
the
time,
because
that’s
about
as
far
as
their
technical
game
knowledge
reaches.
They
see
their
hand,
they
have
some
rudimentary
understanding
of
the
flop
texture
(i.e.
they
can
see
if
they
hit
or
miss),
and
that’s
about
it.
So
when
they
fire
off
a
bet,
you
can
narrow
down
their
range
to
something
like
top
pair
weak
kicker,
second
pair
etc.
And
if
they
have
a
drawing
hand,
they
will
rarely
be
drawing
to
the
nuts.
They
will
usually
have
a
gutshot
draw,
backdoor
straight
and
flush
draws
and
all
other
kinds
of
nonsense.


Summary

Facing
a
pot
sized
bet
from
a
fish
can
be
a
difficult
spot
to
play.
We
are
often
faced
with
a
big
decision
with
a
limited
amount
of
information,
and
their
range
is
outright
impossible
to
predict.
Now,
you
don’t
necessarily
need
to
study
a
bunch
of

advanced
poker
strategy
to
beat
these
kinds
of
players.
But
in
these
situations
it
pays
to
have
a
default
plan
and
stick
with
the
fundamentals.

First
thing
we
should
consider
is
the
effective
stack
size
and
size
of
the
pot
to
determine
our
commitment
to
the
pot.
If
we
have
a
made
hand
(like
top
pair
or
better)
in
the
small
SPR
pot
we
should
aim
to
get
the
rest
of
our
stack
in
the
middle
as
soon
as
possible.
Getting
involved
in
shallow
SPR
pots
with
fish
and
trying
to
take
their
whole
stack
is
something
we
should
aim
to
do
often
anyway.
If
we
have
a
drawing
hand,
we
should
memorize
how
often
our
draws
complete
in
order
to
assess
whether
or
not
we
can
continue
playing
profitably.
Counting
our
outs
and
using
the
“rule
of
four”
will
work
in
a
pinch.
Some
factors
to
keep
in
mind
are
our
draw
strength,
the
number
of
outs,
implied
odds,
our
opponent
type
and
so
on.
The
more
factors
work
in
our
favour,
the
faster
we
can
play
our
hand.
As
far
as
our
recreational
players’
actual
range
is
concerned,
it
varies
wildly.
A
lot
of
the
time
even
they
don’t
know
what
they
are
doing.
But
when
they
fire
off
a
pot
sized
donk
bet,
we
can
usually
narrow
it
down
to
some
kind
of
mediocre
hand.
They
will
almost
never
have
the
absolute
nuts,
but
they
won’t
be
bluffing
with
absolute
air,
either.
The
reason
for
this
is
that
fish
love
to
be
deceptive,
so
they’ll
often
slowplay
their
huge
hands
lest
they
don’t
scare
off
their
opponents.
So
you
can
narrow
down
their
range
to
something
like:
top
pair
weak
kicker,
second
or
third
pair,
weak
straight
and
flush
draws
and
so
on.
Also,
the
bigger
their
VPIP,
the
weaker
their
overall
range,
so
you
can
call
them
down
more
widely.
If
they
fire
off
a
pot
sized
bet
on
the
turn,
we
should
be
more
careful,
but
hopefully
we’ve
put
the
majority
of
our
stack
in
by
now.
All
the
general
rules
still
apply.
When
playing
against
recreational
players
in
general,
the
best
approach
is
always
to
keep
it
simple
and
stick
with
the
fundamentals.
Play
your
hands
as
straightforwardly
as
possible,
and
don’t
worry
about
being
too
predictable.
Save
your
fancy
plays
for
players
that
actually
pay
attention.
Keep
in
mind
that
most
of
your
money
in
poker
won’t
come
from
your
superior
skills,
but
from
your
opponent’s
mistakes,
so
act
accordingly.
Lastly,
if
you
want
to
learn
the
complete
BlackRain79
strategy
for
crushing
small
stakes
games,
make
sure
you
grab
a
copy
of
his

free
poker
cheat
sheet.

What to Do Versus a Pot Sized Bet From a Fish

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